Two Hundred and Fifty Miles through North Wales: Day 3, Part 2

The Reynolds family describe the views and countryside on the way to Barmouth. After paying six pence to the toll house in Penmaenpool they describe the pool there as “enough to make the eye of a fisherman twinkle”.

Dolgellau and Cader Idris

DD/DM/1113- Picture of Dolgellau from the original diary 'Two hundred and fifty miles through North Wales on a wagonette'

At 10.15 we bid good bye to Dolgelly and start on our way for Barmouth, we take the lower road and on the left of the river past Bryn adder and Penmaenuchaf, here we see plenty of wood pigeons flying about and have a delightful drive to Penmaenpool Station on the Cambrian Railway.  We are stopped at the toll house and the family plate is reduced to the extent of six pence before we can pass over, the view of this pool is enough to make the eye of a fisherman twinkle.  Salmon, trout and other fish abound here in abundance, the place looks most lovely.  I was loath to leave it, but Ellis pulls faces at “Tommy” and off we go again. Getting to the end of the bridge we turn to the left on past Borthwnog and Bryn Tirion and admire the beautiful scenery deep below us.  On our left lies Penmaenpool with the lovely houses dotted here and there on its banks whilst on our right we have hills and rocks covered with trees of every description. 

At various places men were engaged cutting down trees evidently to make room for villa residences.  We stopped sometime getting blackberries which were very plentiful.  We drive on and meet the splendid four in hand coach which runs between Dolgelly and Barmouth, we pass the Halfway House Hotel at Bont Ddu, here a lovely stream rushes down to the Mawddach forming a picturesque fall on its way, near this Hotel is a lovely dell and waterfall.  On leaving the Hotel the road winds round small wooded eminences out of the sight of the water and does not return to the river until the Church and mansion of Caerdeon are left behind, then at every step the scene improves and there appears a broad expanse of the estuary with the bridge in front and Arthog village opposite, at Arthog there is a pretty waterfall. On looking up the vale the water is seen winding round jutting promontories with the Arans in the rear and the Cader Idris range opposite, one and a half miles before arriving at Barmouth the best point of view was gained, and a supremely lovely prospect it was.

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